Table Of Contents

T1 11 Install Flashing Around Window 10
Install T1 11 Siding
T1 11 Flashing Details
T1 11 Install Flashing Around Windows Properly
T1 11 Install Flashing Around Window Screen

1. Flashing
2. Sealant Joints
3. Windows & Doors
4. Rain Screens
5. Envelopes
6. Roofs
7. Basements
8. Crawlspaces
9. Structure

This instructional video teaches how to hang sheet siding using Dodge Hangers. Dodge Hangers are a new innovative hardware which are assisting in making the. Typically, T1-11 siding costs between $25 and $40 per 4 foot by 8 foot sheet. The variation in price is accounted for by the fact that there are many different finishing options available, including some T1-11 materials that are pretreated or already stained. However, this does not account for the installation or labor costs of installing T1-11.

“The fundamental principle of water management is to shed water by layering materials in such a way that water is directed downwards and outwards out of the building or away from the building. The key to this fundamental principle is drainage. The most elegant expression of this concept is flashing. Flashings are the most under-rated building enclosure component and arguably the most important.”

-Joe Lstiburek

A. FLASHING DIMENSIONS

B. FLASHING: WHERE TO INSTALL IT
Flashings should be installed:
1. At all horizontal joints between different exterior finishes unless the upper finish overlaps the lower finish.
2. At every offset in cladding, changes in cladding substrate, and at all penetrations (horizontal transitions between siding, stone, brick, tile, or stucco).
3. Where stresses can be concentrated (such as at the rim joist/foundation joint).
4. Where drainage is compromised (such as a change from wall cladding to parging).
5. The top and bottom of windows, doors, and all penetrations (vents, lights, hose bibs, electrical outlets, electrical meters, etc).

C. FLASHING: IMPORTANT POINTS
1. Building paper lapping: Install in a shingled fashion with the upper sheet always overlapping the lower sheet by a minimum of 4”. This and the down and out principle shown below.
2. NEVER rely on any self-adhering membranes (tape, peel and stick) in lieu of properly shingled laps or fluid applied flashing.
3. Minimum flashing slope: 20 degrees.
4. Leave a 1/4” minimum gap between cladding termination and sloped metal drip flashings, shown in figure 1.1 C (this detail can also apply to other flashing details such as: belly bands, exterior penetrations, etc.).
5. If above average shrinkage or differential movement is expected (wood to masonry transition or multi-story building) the minimum gap between flashing and the cladding should be increased to 1/2”.

D. Drip Edges
Flashing with a hemmed drip-edge breaks water surface tension and prevents water from running along the underside of the flashing and back into the wall.

Important Note: Flashing penetrations: Penetrations (pipes, cables, refrigerant lines, vents, etc.) must be flashed before the cladding is installed. It is nearly impossible to properly flash a penetration without removing the cladding around the penetration. Be sure to have a plan for all flashings through the building enclosure prior to cladding the building.

Continue to 1.2 Head Flashing >>>

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There’s nothing like having a few gaping holes in the perfectly good exterior walls of your house during rainy season to make you fully appreciate that windows in your house will either be a blessing, or the bane of your existence. Depending on how well they’re installed and the kind of flashing you use. Also, now may be a good time for you to buy stock in caulk.

You may have been around here a few weeks ago when MysteryMan thought he was going to have to call the exorcist because my head was spinning around on my shoulders with the force of my rage at the improper window installation situation we had going on.In retrospect, I’m still not sure if I would have rather risked the stability of our relationship by trying to install them ourselves, and at this point it is what it is.

So that no one else has to stumble upon the proper flashing and trimming techniques the way I did, here’s what I learned…

Flashing (not the kind that goes on at Mardi Gras)

Here’s what a window should look like that has been properly installed:

Note:

Flashing at the bottom that sits under the window. Everyone tells us the roofing rubber we used was overkill, but do you want to have water in your house? Me either.
House wrap should be tucked inside on the sides and bottom of the window.
House wrap should be folded up at the top (and able to be folded back down after the window tape is on.
For windows that come with an integrated nailing flange that has to be bent out (Marvin) they will also have corner pieces that must be properly placed and caulked.

Here’s the problem with DIYing some of your house addition… all the tradesmen we’ve worked with like to play a game called “that’s not my job”. It goes like this “I’ll install your windows and attach the corner pieces, but I won’t caulk them because… that’s not my job. The siding guy does that.”

So it’s up to you as the person who has access to the internet and therefore the wealth of the ages to be informed of these things so that you don’t accidentally trim your windows out without caulking the corner pieces. Not that I’d have any experience with that.

Ok, now that everything is caulked, it’s time for the window tape. Foil on one side, and some kind of tar based don’t-get-this-stuff-on-your-clothes stickiness on the other side. Seriously. Don’t get it on your clothes. Or anything else you don’t want stuck to the window.

Start with the sides. The tape gets applied 3″ over the top edge (enough for the top strip of tape to overlap it) and about 1/2″ up onto the side of the window. The top should start under the top flap for the house-wrap, so this image is a little misleading.

The side pieces should run 4″ down over the flashing at the bottom.

The top piece runs 4″ out over the side pieces, and under the top flap of house wrap.

And then the top flap gets folded down over the window tape, and the seams are taped up with house wrap tape.

Seems like taping might be a more appropriate term for it.

That’s all there is to the flashing that needs to be done before you put on the trim. I’ll show you how our rubber flashing piece works when we install the siding. (Which god help me better be sooner rather than later.)

Let’s trim something, shall we?

Trimming

First lets talk about trimming basics. Window trim is basically just four pieces of wood, no matter how you look at it, but some ways are fancier than others. Here are some things to consider.

Materials– There are lots of materials you can use – fiber-cement trim boards, extruded aluminum trim from the window manufacturer, or plain old wood. For better or worse we’re going with cedar siding on the house, and rough sawn cedar for all of the fascia and trim.

Sizes-Your trim should stick out past your siding, and since we’re using a 1″ overlaping siding we needed at to use 2x rough sawn lumber to trim in the windows. With a thinner siding you could use 1x material. Common widths are 4-6″. Honestly I’ve seen some windows with 6″ siding, and unless they are huge, they look a little overwhelmed by that thick trim. But, much like permed bangs were in the eighties, it’s a personal choice.

Corners– You can miter the corners or use a straight cut, and let me just give you an opinion on this. Don’t miter them. One, it’s a pain in the ass. Two, as the wood expands and contracts (which will b

T1 11 Install Flashing Around Window